Qalmutan Farm: A Four-Generation Family Story of Tradition and Innovation
Nestled in Ma Yuan Village, Wanrong Township, Qalmutan Farm is run by a four-generation Bunun family. The farm produces abiu, arrow bamboo shoots, free-range chickens, processed agricultural products, and local specialty meals while welcoming visitors to experience their hospitality. The farm is named after the Bunun family surname “Qalmutan”, symbolizing the family’s commitment to preserving and passing down Bunun culture without forgetting their roots.
The First Generation: Aki Laung Qalmutan
Born in 1927 (the 16th year of the Republic of China), Laung Qalmutan, respectfully referred to as Aki Laung, was not only a hunter and shaman but also a skilled farmer, stonemason, and basket weaver. As the soul of Qalmutan Farm, Aki Laung embodied a wealth of practical skills and traditional knowledge. He was one of the first elders to migrate from Nantou to Ma Yuan Village in Hualien, carrying with him a treasure trove of life stories and cultural heritage.
Visitors are often drawn to the farm to learn from Aki Laung’s expertise and hear his captivating tales of migration, craftsmanship, and traditional practices.
The Second Generation: Abu Mangququ
The second-generation owner, Abu Mangququ (Abu is her given name, while Mangququ is her maiden family name), serves as the chairperson of a local association. She spends her days working with elders at the village’s Cultural Health Station and has also served as a representative for Wanrong Township for multiple terms. With her extensive network and connections, Abu is responsible for marketing and managing orders for the farm.
The Third Generation: Laung Qalmutan (Younger Laung)
The third-generation owner, Laung Qalmutan, inherited his grandfather’s name and family surname, as is customary for Bunun men. To distinguish him from the first-generation owner, he is referred to as Younger Laung. He works as a social worker during the week in Hualien City and returns to the village on weekends to assist with farming and continue the legacy of Qalmutan Farm.
The Fourth Generation: Abu Qalmutan
The fourth-generation little host, Abu Qalmutan, was born in 2023. As the family’s long-awaited baby, she represents hope and continuity for the Qalmutan legacy.
The stark contrast between the first and fourth generations is a profound reflection of life itself—on one end, a newborn child full of potential, and on the other, a wise elder with a lifetime of experiences.
The story of Qalmutan Farm begins here, where tradition and innovation intertwine, weaving a rich tapestry of Bunun culture and family heritage.
The Origins of Qalmutan Farm
Qalmutan Farm consists of three different areas: an arrow bamboo shoot plantation situated at an altitude of over 600 meters, rice paddies used for seasonal crops, and a golden fruit orchard integrated with free-range, eco-friendly chicken farming.
The golden fruit orchard is located near the family home in the Kunuan Tribe of Ma Yuan Village, where healthy chickens roam freely beneath the trees, foraging as they wander. In March and April, fireflies sparkle among the treetops, creating a serene and relaxing atmosphere.
When the land was first selected for development, Aki Laung had an ominous dream, which he interpreted as a sign to look for a different place to settle. After several relocations and dream interpretations, the family finally chose their current location as their permanent home.
The second-generation leader, Abu Mangququ, who also serves as the chairperson of the Community Development Association and has held multiple terms as a township representative, is widely known for her hospitality. She is affectionately referred to as “Tina Abu,” “Ma Representative,” or “Ma Jie.” Her friendly and welcoming nature makes her the go-to person when friends and family visit and need meals or accommodation.
A few years ago, with the East Longitudinal Valley National Scenic Area Headquarter promoting tribal small-scale tourism, Tina Abu rallied tribal members to attend training courses. With the association applying for guidance programs, the tribe identified its unique features, learned about plating traditional meals, and developed itineraries and hosting skills, creating a cooperative tribal economy.
Qalmutan Farm was officially registered under the third-generation leader, Laung Qalmutan, to ensure that the home and Bunun spirit painstakingly built by Aki Laung, who traveled over mountains from Nantou to Hualien, could be passed down and preserved for generations to come.
Unifying the Tribe: Developing Deep Tourism in Kunuan
The Kunuan Tribe is surrounded by abundant natural resources and hidden gems, including the famous “Century-Old Banyan Tree,” often referred to as “Avatar” due to its majestic appearance. This site regularly draws visitors from far and wide.
Recognizing this potential, Tina Abu leveraged her extensive local network to rally tribal members and organize roles for developing immersive tribal tourism. With the Community Development Association as the main driver, they successfully crafted a series of deep travel experiences. The activities included accommodations, traditional Bunun pestle music, DIY workshops, and guided walking tours of the tribe.
As a key facilitator, Tina Abu ensured each task was delegated to the most suitable tribal members. The Qalmutan Farm team handled specialty meals and accommodations, while guided tours and other themed activities were managed by different members of the tribe. Everyone took pride in sharing the authentic beauty, kindness, and culture of Kunuan, attracting many travelers from Taiwan and abroad.
However, after several successful years, the onset of the pandemic brought significant changes to their operations.
Adapting to Change: A Perfect Blend of Tribal Cuisine and the Chicken Business
Before the pandemic, Kunuan’s small tribal tourism relied heavily on cooperation through the Community Development Association, with tasks divided among members to promote local experiences. However, to prioritize the health and safety of the tribe during the pandemic, they temporarily stopped hosting visitors. Even after reopening, the family decided to forgo managing accommodations, focusing instead on reservations for specialty meals.
Tina Abu, who has a passion for sharing local cuisine, now primarily takes reservations for major celebrations or special events. Her dishes highlight seasonal ingredients such as arrow bamboo shoots, wild burdock, maqaw (mountain pepper), sweet bamboo shoots, and pumpkin, crafting a menu full of unique flavors. A signature part of every feast is the Qalmutan Farm’s healthy chicken dishes, which have become a staple.
The farm’s chicken and egg business was initially established by Younger Laung. He designed a free-range system within the golden fruit orchard, combining eco-friendly practices with his personal approach to stress relief: chatting with the chickens and observing their behavior. To ensure quality, Younger Laung thoroughly traced the origins of the chicken feed and avoided antibiotics during the rearing process. Both the chickens and eggs were tested by SGS, earning certification as antibiotic-free.
After Tina Abu took over the chicken business, she began trying chicken dishes elsewhere, only to reaffirm her pride in the farm’s poultry. She boasts that their chickens are the tastiest, and their eggs have a rich, flavorful yolk that stands out. Her newfound discerning palate has even made her a tough critic. Regular customers and food connoisseurs visiting Qalmutan Farm often insist on including chicken dishes in their orders to satisfy their cravings.
During holidays and festivals, the healthy chickens are particularly popular, with many people calling ahead to place reservations. They’ve become a highly sought-after specialty, making Qalmutan Farm’s chicken a must-have for celebrations.
Grandfather and Grandson Unite: Building a Dream of Sustainable Farming with Stone
As you step into Qalmutan Farm, you’ll notice free-range chickens darting and chasing each other, neatly stacked stone walls winding through the property, and rows of thriving trees and plants such as bald cypresses, golden fruit trees, sweet bamboo shoots, prickly ash, and calamus—all flourishing and warmly welcoming visitors.
In the past, Aki Laung experimented with planting a wide variety of crops at the farm, including sugar tangerines, persimmons, red quinoa, pumpkins, and more. However, the varying growing seasons, care requirements, and lack of planning or experience in farming and sales meant the farm primarily operated for self-sufficiency.
When the third-generation owner, Younger Laung, took over, he began considering a more sustainable business model for the farm. With his full-time weekday job leaving him little time, he became a “weekend farmer,” learning cultivation and land-friendly farming practices the hard way—through trial, error, and plenty of lessons. From failed attempts, he realized that focusing solely on growing golden fruit and raising chickens best suited the farm’s environment and resources.
While Aki Laung had relied on herbicides to control weeds in the past, Younger Laung adhered to the philosophy of sustainable farming, choosing instead to manually cut the grass. His persistence in this approach often made others joke that he looked more like a professional weed cutter than a farmer. Over time, his dedication began to shift Aki Laung’s long-standing habit of “spraying chemicals,” showing the elder a new way of thinking.
During grass-cutting sessions, Younger Laung often grew frustrated by the trash, plastic strings, and rocks scattered across the land. Seeing this, Aki Laung took it upon himself to collect garbage and stack stones, creating cleaner and more manageable spaces for Younger Laung to work.
The stone terraces and pathways you see today—crafted entirely by Aki Laung, stone by stone—stand as a testament to his patient, meticulous work. These hand-built features not only serve a practical purpose but also lend the farm a unique and stunning landscape, embodying the collaborative spirit and shared vision of grandfather and grandson.
Processing Innovation: Preserving the Taste of Nature
Every year, the arrow bamboo shoot harvest season kicks off in early April at the high-altitude bamboo plantations of Qalmutan Farm. During this time, three generations of the family rise at 4 or 5 AM to head into the bamboo groves, searching for the prized shoots.
Aki Laung and Tina Abu are in charge of harvesting, while Younger Laung carries the shoots down the mountain, ensuring they make it back by noon. Once home, Aki Laung and Younger Laung quickly get to work peeling the bamboo shoots, while Tina Abu cleans, vacuums, and packages the shoots for sale. The freshly packaged bamboo shoots are then rushed to the Ruisui Black Cat logistics center by 5 PM for delivery. After a long day’s work, with sweat still dripping, they look up to find the stars already greeting them. Thankfully, most days, the harvested bamboo shoots sell out completely.
However, when production surges and market prices plummet, the sight of unsold bamboo shoots piled up is a painful reminder of wasted effort. Younger Laung began to think deeply about how to address this issue.
Having attended food safety and product development courses, Younger Laung recognized the challenges posed by surplus production or the poor appearance of some bamboo shoots and golden fruits. In 2024, he took action by sending these ingredients to processing plants, creating products like “Pickled Bamboo Shoots with Peeled Chili” and “Golden Full Moon Wine.” These processed goods allow consumers to enjoy the flavors of Kunuan even beyond the harvest season, offering them as unique tribal souvenirs.
Looking ahead, Younger Laung hopes to expand the sales network for these products, sharing the taste of the Kunuan Tribe with even more people and ensuring the rich flavors of the farm are enjoyed year-round.
A Vision of Symbiosis and Sharing: The Future Blueprint for Qalmutan Farm
As Aki Laung grows older, the rice paddies and high-altitude arrow bamboo plantations are no longer suitable for him to manage.
Never one to sit idle, Aki Laung now spends his days in the farm’s golden fruit orchard, seated under the shade of the trees, peeling golden fruits or playing with his great-granddaughter, Abu Qalmutan. Sometimes, he weaves traditional backpacks in the garden pavilion, grants interviews, or simply lies down to enjoy the soothing sounds of chirping birds and insects.
Once reluctant to share his skills, Aki Laung now enthusiastically accepts invitations to teach as a cultural instructor, passing down his knowledge and experience. The legacy of Qalmutan Farm began with Aki Laung’s strong, weathered hands, which worked tirelessly to build a home and secure a way of life. Through his keen observation and unyielding curiosity, he drew knowledge and wisdom from nature, developing a harmonious relationship with the land. This wisdom, nurtured over generations, has laid a strong foundation for the farm’s growth.
Through trial and error, the family has developed a unique philosophy of living and farming, envisioning a future where Qalmutan Farm becomes a platform of innovation and collaboration. Rooted in the ideals of symbiosis and sharing, the farm aims to unite the creativity of many to support a greater vision of sustainable living and cultural preservation.
This ideal home will be a place where people can relax, share meals, and coexist with nature while passing on memories of life and culture. By creating a multi-faceted space of interaction and connection, Qalmutan Farm not only fosters mutual benefits for everyone involved but also breathes new vitality into its legacy, ensuring its future for generations to come.
If you ever have the chance to visit Qalmutan Farm, don’t miss the opportunity to sit down and chat with Aki Laung. Discover the richness of the Bunun Takiivatan community while experiencing the warmth and vibrancy of this four-generation family haven.
[1] Aki is the Bunun term for grandfather, while Laung is his Bunun name.
[2] Tina is a respectful term used in the Bunun language to address female elders, and Abu is her given name.
Writer: Xu Hua-Fang
Editor: Apyang Imiq
Photos Courtesy of: Qalmutan Farm
Scan the QR Code below for the Qalmutan Farm official website.
